Does my work look "paleo"?

[BenjaminEble]

[BenjaminEble]

And:

[BenjaminEble]

Should I interpret the lack of response to mean that the work does not look "paleo"? (While I am pretty good with data, I have a hard time interpreting non-verbal social cues.)

[MidlandMan]

The point does remind me of the Meadowcroft and a Cactus Hill point. That qualifies I believe.

[BenjaminEble]

Okay Midland,

Thanks for the input. That would definitely be paleo. I am currently working out how to thin, after the point is already thin. The initial thinning involves removing humps, high spots, and ridges. But, eventually the point becomes flat, on each face. Still, it may not be thin enough. So, what I have found is by beveling, and grinding very fine platforms, I can remove subsequent thinning flakes off of an already flat surface. It is getting very interesting.

Ben

[arrow719]

Not unless you have a time machine that took you back 10,000 years.

[MidlandMan]

Okay Midland,

Thanks for the input. That would definitely be paleo. I am currently working out how to thin, after the point is already thin. The initial thinning involves removing humps, high spots, and ridges. But, eventually the point becomes flat, on each face. Still, it may not be thin enough. So, what I have found is by beveling, and grinding very fine platforms, I can remove subsequent thinning flakes off of an already flat surface. It is getting very interesting.

Ben

It seems quite probable to me that this is the exact same set of problems that the people of this early phase of the Paleo ( Meadowcroft and Cactus Hill) were working on and as a result your work resembles theirs. I hope you figure it out. It took them a couple thousand years apparently. Reverse engineering may be considerably easier than the initial innovative discovery of the technique which is an advantage in your favor.

[BenjaminEble]

Here are some other photos of a point that I tried to re-thin. Originally, the point's center had a hump, while the edges were thin. With the newer strategy, I tried to identify the highest spots, closest to the edges, punch-bevel new platforms, and remove larger thinning flakes. Unfortunately, I could not pull off any outre passe flakes, because the center is too high, and the edges to low, or close to centerline. So, I was forced to punch-flake "uphill".

Anyway, a two inch antler drift can be used to generate outre passe flakes, almost by default, as can be seen in previous photos. The reason for this has to do with the opposite edge contact. Since the stone is held under the thumb, and against the base of the first finger, the opposite edge of the point presses against the juncture between the thumb, and first finger. As a result, under the proper conditions, flakes can readily travel over the face of the stone, and reach the opposite edge.

[BenjaminEble]

Here are some other photos of a point that I tried to re-thin with "updated" drift techniques. Originally, the point's center had a hump, while the edges were thin. With the newer strategy, I tried to identify the highest spots, closest to the edges, punch-bevel new platforms, and remove larger thinning flakes. Unfortunately, I could not pull off any outre passe flakes, because the center is too high, and the edges are to low, or close to centerline - even after punch beveling. So, I was forced to punch-flake "uphill", a bit.

Anyway, a two inch antler drift can be used to generate outre passe flakes, almost by default, as seen in previous photos. The reason for this has to do with the opposite edge contact. Since the stone is held under the thumb, and against the base of the first finger, the opposite edge of the point presses against the juncture between the thumb, and first finger. As a result, under the proper conditions, flakes can readily travel over the face of the stone, and reach the opposite edge, during impact, due to the support.

[Massac]

I would think woodland if I found it.