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  1. #1
    Junior Relic Hunter
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    37

    Wall Displaying??

    What are the best options for displaying arrowheads on a wall. A display case /shadowbox with adhesives or with foam? I see some collections that appear to have some kind of adhesive. Will the adhesive come off the arrowhead?

    Thanks for your help,
    Arrowheadscout

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  3. #2
    Elite Arrowheadologist
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    1,107
    I know it can be done but I won't do it. I used regular caseboxes with foam and that is a good way to go if mounting vertical (LOL!)

    Wife was dusting the frame on the wall (at least 30 pound anchor). It "fell off" and slid to the floor. Only one point was damaged, but all were knocked to the bottom of the frame. Glass broke. Was a triangle frame. Point damaged was one of my absolute best and it was only the very last 1/32 of the needle tip that broke off. Still have that tiny piece, it's too small to glue that's how small. But hurt bad. You can see how tore up I am. LOL.
    Just make sure they are as sturdily attached everywhere it has attachments and put in a place where no one can bunk into them and remember to dust gently.
    I don't have anything hanging on the wall, just too easy if someone did break in. All is secure except for recent finds. Someone I know took pictures of his points and put them on the wall, hahahahahaha Looks pretty good and it's his stuff!@

  4. #3
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    High Desert
    Posts
    5,145
    Hey Tom, a lesson to be learnt. Don't let the wife dust yer stuff...Teets
    Not all those who wander are lost.

  5. #4
    Elite Arrowheadologist
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    1,107
    LOL, she doesn't touch any of my stuff and it really shows!! Got me bottled up in a dusty corner.

  6. #5
    Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Scioto County, Ohio
    Posts
    10,953
    I've had these trays up on the wall in my artifact room for over 15 years and have never had any problems with them falling off.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Steve Valentine; 06-07-2011 at 07:12 PM.
    "Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends, we're so glad you could attend, come inside, come inside."

  7. #6
    Junior Relic Hunter
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Valentine View Post
    I've had these trays up on the wall in my artifact room for over 15 years and have never had any problems with them falling off.
    WoW!! Very nice collection and display, can I have them!!! Lol.

    I think I'll have to take tomclark's advice. I have a wife that likes to dust "and" I have 3 young children. Oh! Wait! What I mean is, I have a wife that "dislikes" dusting but does from time to time "and" I have 3 energetic young children.

  8. #7
    Junior Relic Hunter
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    37

    My best guess on display cases

    Well, hopefully someone saves us Manoman.

    This is my best guess.

    Riker style cases I think you are referring to are the cheap black cardboard cases with the white very loose cotton looking foam which doesn't create enough support. The thin back wall also will bow under pressure and not giving adequate support behind the foam to hold the arrowheads. (I have one like this and I dislike it).

    The lockable wood cases that you see commonly they have a soft polyurethane foam in there with very little room, if any between the foam and the glass. The upward pressure from soft foam contours the artifact and the glass pressure holds them securely in place.

    If I'm correct what different kinds of foam can you use? Which is the best choice?

    But the other way I'm not sure of. The displays cases that you see that have no foam and the arrowheads seem to be hot glued to the back wall, or they might have some kind of anti-gravity mechanism, or mayby it is an old Indian trick.

    Is it hot glue or other means?

    Thanks

  9. #8
    Senior Arrowheadologist
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    355
    I've altered some cases by cutting a groove about 1/8" width x 1/4" deep around the inside of the frame about 3/4"or slightly less from the glass. I cut a piece of black or grey felt slightly larger than the glass, then add underneath some poly stuffing about 1/2" thick, then a very stiff pice of hard cardboard to fit inside the frame. Cut 4 pieces of wood about 4" long, about 1/8" thick with the ends cut at a 45 degree angle.
    Place the points on the felt with the backing & the hard cardboard beneath it, then place the frame with the glass attached over it. Press the individual stikcks at a 45 degree angle into the 4 corners by feel & compressing it so that the sticks hold the hard carboard & the points to the glass.
    Presto!

  10. #9
    Lifetime Collector
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    504
    Riker cases can be fixed to hold points in a vertical wall display, but they are just not as attractive as the hardwood frames. Take a piece of cardboard (or 2) and cut it the size of the riker box bottom, then put it beneath the poly stuff. That will stiffen up the cardboard case enough to hold most points. I screw a hanger on the back then hot glue the inside of the screws so they won't come out.
    Hardwood cases are not all the same. Good ones will have the 1" or 2" foam tight against the glass, so if you use a thin color sheet (I use color fabric) points will stay where you put them. However, cheaper made hardwood cases sometimes use a too thin plywood for the back, which will bow out in the center over time. 1/4" ply or thicker is best. Even then, if you mix thicker points with thin points in a frame, the thinner ones may eventually slide (a piece of double-stick tape helps). In a good hardwood case, you can put thick relics and they will stay when hung up. Just make sure the hangers are well fastened and the screws are into something other than drywall- lol!

  11. #10
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Moniteau county, Missouri
    Posts
    2,479
    i use small cuts of leather strips behind my thin points so they can not be seen some other ways i have stoped points from sliding is to use old t-shirts behind my foam to thicken the frame this works well i have seen just about everything used even carpet padding cut to fit the frame then covered with felt or a colorful fabric such as a old tshirt they come in many colors and is my fabric of choice, just cut it a little bigger than the foam that you cover and use a butter knife to tuck it down and it looks great !!!
    kent
    who is wise? he who learns from every person
    www.arrowheadology.com

 

 
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