Wall Displaying??

[kentlangreder]

i use small cuts of leather strips behind my thin points so they can not be seen some other ways i have stoped points from sliding is to use old t-shirts behind my foam to thicken the frame this works well i have seen just about everything used even carpet padding cut to fit the frame then covered with felt or a colorful fabric such as a old tshirt they come in many colors and is my fabric of choice, just cut it a little bigger than the foam that you cover and use a butter knife to tuck it down and it looks great !!!
kent

[arrowheadscout]

Originally Posted by silverback

I've altered some cases by cutting a groove about 1/8" width x 1/4" deep around the inside of the frame about 3/4"or slightly less from the glass. I cut a piece of black or grey felt slightly larger than the glass, then add underneath some poly stuffing about 1/2" thick, then a very stiff pice of hard cardboard to fit inside the frame. Cut 4 pieces of wood about 4" long, about 1/8" thick with the ends cut at a 45 degree angle.
Place the points on the felt with the backing & the hard cardboard beneath it, then place the frame with the glass attached over it. Press the individual stikcks at a 45 degree angle into the 4 corners by feel & compressing it so that the sticks hold the hard carboard & the points to the glass.
Presto!

You have some pics to show us how you did it?

[highsierra]

Cases adapt easily to wall hanging. These are a few from Meadows that hang on a "friend's" walls. Local to GB finds.

[henry english]

a touch of elmer's white will hold them and they won't slide , releases in warm water ,

henry

[silverback]

I forgot to mention that the frame must be taken apart before any of the table saw operations are taken. I thought for a long time on how to accomplish that & finally figured a way to do so. I used a small hydralic jack & had to set it on some scrap wood to bring the bottom to the same level of the bottom of the frame standing vertically. I then had to place a piece of wood on the top of the jack & had to hold it in place as I jacked it up to the top of the frame becahse the jack is to large to fit within the frame.
Finally, the brads started coming loose & the corners of the frame started lifting where I could use a scrapper to carefully open it fully. I clipped the brads off the one part of the frame that had them fully embedded in it & then sanded inside the corners of the frame after all 4 sides were seperate.
Just imagine a cake, with the bottom layer being the 1/8" thick sticks with 45 degree cut corners as the holders of the hard cardboard backing. The sticks fit in the groove also at a 45 degree angle when you're compressing everything to finish into the groove cut into the side of the frame behind the glass about 3/4". The next layer above the HC is the padding & the next layer is the felt, the points are on top of the felt, which are eventually compressed against the glass. If you still need photo's of the indivdual pieces, email me & I'll take a few photo's.

[Steve Valentine]

Here is another option for mounting Riker Mounts on a wall. This was done by putting up boards on the wall with grooves on both the top and bottom boards so that the Rikers would slide in between the two boards. I saw this collection right before it went to auction and also bought a few pieces from it. This man had two walls set up this way and it was very impressive.

[henry english]

steve i have 54 frames of riker mounts on the walls of my relic room at this time put up by this slide in method , works for me , i also have many walnut frames filled that are not mounted on the third wall yet , pics will be forthcoming when the room is finished , all ohio , ky, tenn, and the midwest , plus texas ,

henry

[Mojave]

Hmmm. I'll have to take some pics. I don't have nearly as many but they are much more densely packed.

[DesertWalker]

Here some of Henry's photos from his relic room. Have to post one at a time, since I don't know how to do multiples in a single post.

[DesertWalker]

More henry...